Help with cords!

[Berserkergang]

So I really want to build some metal, fire nunchaku, but I want to use cord for a full smooth spinning effect, instead of a chain-to-chuck style.

Anyone have ideas on how I can put cord in homemade aluminum broom handle nunchaku without it getting tore up?

[jmvicuna]

My suggestions would be:

- you HAVE to use a dremel (www.dremel.com) or something similar for the ends of the top hole and horizontal holes.
- Try to use a rubber ring for the top hole (put it inside, so the cord touch the rubber and not the pipe´s end)
- Try some silicone in the borders of all the holes
- Try with broad cords (big diameter) so it will last more, and also you will know with more precision when it needs for an upgrade
- Also, you can try candle wax for the inside part

But, the more important, is to make the pipe as smooth as possible... with that I think that you have a long way done

Tell us when you do it, to see the result 

Rubber ring pic:

[Yayu]

1) You really gotta be careful with these since the cord has a chance of burning and melting. I'm sure you've already given that thought.

2) If you can find a dowel thin enough to fit in the tube, perhaps you can have em' run through the pipes whole and just string your chucks through the dowels as if the pipes are just sleeves.

[Berserkergang]

Good idea. and about the cord melting, If the heat isn't strong enough to burn my hands where I hold them, then the cord should be fine.

[Yayu]

Well yeah, but you just can't be too careful, cord could absorb fuel without any notice.

[Berserkergang]

Unless I use kevlar cord maybe. 

[Yayu]

Kevlar still absorbs fuel and burn but point taken

[Yetibutt]

1) You really gotta be careful with these since the cord has a chance of burning and melting. I'm sure you've already given that thought.

2) If you can find a dowel thin enough to fit in the tube, perhaps you can have em' run through the pipes whole and just string your chucks through the dowels as if the pipes are just sleeves.

I've done option two, the wood dowel approach, but with chain.  I cut the a spring clip in half (like what is on a dog lease) and used only the solid end (not the spring clip) which functions like a U-Swivel.  This I embedded that in wood plug, coated the whole assemblage with epoxy, and pounded it into an iron pipe.  It works well, but there is no taking it apart.

My point being it will be difficult to change the cord going about it this way.  You need the wood plug to be very secure.  Perhaps you could put the plug into the aluminum pipe, then drill through the whole thing, and add a metal rod through this, with just a few centimeters of the rod sticking out on either end.  Hammer the ends of the rod till they flatten out, and youve got a rivet.  Then you could take out the whole thing apart by removing the metal rod.

[theraven39]

My point being it will be difficult to change the cord going about it this way.  You need the wood plug to be very secure.  Perhaps you could put the plug into the aluminum pipe, then drill through the whole thing, and add a metal rod through this, with just a few centimeters of the rod sticking out on either end.  Hammer the ends of the rod till they flatten out, and youve got a rivet.  Then you could take out the whole thing apart by removing the metal rod.

Ooooor...you could use tension pins...why does nobody use these things? 
http://www.smallparts.com/Plated-Steel-Spring-Diameter-Length/dp/B001P17HKY?ie=UTF8&pf_rd_r=05HSYBJYKSZDW69JD2PV&pf_rd_p=467590051&pf_rd_i=16410401&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_m=AIUBT5HP6PMAF&pf_rd_t=101

Obviously not the right length.  I gotta get to work soon and I didn't wanna browse for the perfect one.  I get mine at Lowe's anyway, but they're pretty perfect.  The ones I get are hellaciously durable.  I used the 1/4 inch pins on my steelies, and until I foolishly left them behind at a very uneducated friend's house, they worked out perfectly.  You get them the exact diameter of your sticks, then just drill a hole and tap them in, and the tension of them trying to expand keeps them in place.  They're also called roll pins and spring pins depending on where you find them, but if you buy good quality ones, you'll never need to replace them, though you can pound them in and out to replace your connections with very little ill effect.  The other advantage is that there's no edge to cut yourself on, or have to cover with tape, and they're lightweight.  As far as a rope connection, you might want to think about using something relatively flexible and strong, yet non-porous and non-flammable.  If you could find those little crimpy-connectors they use to make loops at the end of steel cable, you could go with a very thin, woven-steel cable.  It'd be tough to wear through that, and you don't have to worry about it absorbing fuel or catching on fire, plus, if you do go with the tension pins, you can just hammer one through the center of the loop and you'd be golden.  Anyway, you probably catch the gist of it, and I've gotta go to work.  Good luck on your venture.

[zwy6art]

Rope is easy to restring with. Plus it's a lot tougher than you think. Just get standard rope, even nylon rope I would think would work.

Set up the chucks like the pick. And burn away. My first fire chucks where with cord and I had absolutely zero problems. If you hold them so the fire climbs up the chuck then yeah, the tubing will get hot. But you don't do that. Your spinning like a mad man and having a blast. And if you aren't spinning your holding them up like a torch.

Never had any issues using plain old chord. It never caught on fire, (the flames where over 10 inches away) and I never had string break on me. Mainly cause I did quick checks every now and then. To have a rope break on you in mid spin seems kind of irresponsible on the chuckers part. I know accidents happen. But it seems silly.

Nylon chord might cause issues IF you hold the chucks so the flame crawls up melting the chord slightly and then cooling makeing it crisp and more breakable. Other wise, same thing goes.

Just check the strings (by checking the strings I mean, the .3 second look and quick yank) and all should be good.




When you yank on the wire hard with string( REALLY HARD) it bends the wire up, and keeps the chord from sliding back and forth. I never noticed any skipping while spinning with chords like this.

btw - bailing wire is tuff, it's going to last a long time. I've never swapped out my bailing wire ever since I started chucking.

Oh and the tubing I used wasnt thin sharp stuff. I just grabbed some aluminum tubbing from a hardware store 1" diameter with a 1/8" thick wall. Then it wont ding on you bad or bend.

[Berserkergang]

Thanks guys!

I'm pretty sure now I'm going with a ballbearing set in aluminum pipes now.

[jmvicuna]

Thanks guys!

I'm pretty sure now I'm going with a ballbearing set in aluminum pipes now.

So, the "dont do that" were so strong, or the "do this way" were too weak??   

Good luck with th BB.... let us know the results

[Berserkergang]

Well it's helped me decide That chains will be the more attractive looking option here. Haha

[zwy6art]

Well it's helped me decide That chains will be the more attractive looking option here. Haha

Plus they rattle a little which increases the cool level a couple notches.

[Satriyo]

I made this a week ago:





That should make the rope last much longer (w/o those wooden caps the rope snapped after 2 hours of use)